Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Marvin Gaye - Sexual Healing 1982

Marvin Gaye - Sexual Healing HQ Audio This is the extended version by Ben Liebrand 9 minutes of it!...nice!

Thursday, April 26, 2012

What Are Open Ground Outlets?

An outlet that has an open ground is a three prong outlet that is not properly grounded. The three prongs are the Hot, Neutral, and Ground.

An open ground occurs whenever the ground wire is not correctly attached to the outlet. or the wiring for the house does not have a ground wire. Some older wiring in houses only have two wires, the "hot" and the "neutral", such as knob and tube wiring or some of the older rag romex wiring. If there is no ground wire at the house wiring, then a three prong outlet should not be installed. The only exception would be to install a GFCI outlet and place a sticker that states "NO Equipment Ground". The outlet will still not be grounded but with the GFCI protection, it will be safer than a regular two prong outlet or a three prong outlet with an open ground.

Some might think that if an older outlet is not grounded and an open grounded three prong outlet is not grounded; why not change them all to three prong outlets so you can plug everything into them? The reason is that three prong outlets give a false sense of security. Leaving it ungrounded with three prongs may someday affect you or someone else, who would be under the impression this outlet is grounded. This is the same as removing the ground prong from an appliance or tool so that it will fit into a two prong outlet. I heard about someone using an electric drill which had the ground prong removed to fit an older outlet. He then drilled into the wall and hit a live wire. It's a wonder he is still alive today! Don't do this, it is unsafe and could get you or someone else killed.

The best scenario would be to have all of your outlets three prong and grounded. If you can't have this because of the wiring in your home, then you should add GFCI outlets instead. A qualified electrician can evaluate your home and tell you what would be best for your particular wiring system.




Kelly Ulm has been a home inspector for ten years and was a carpenter for twelve years before that. He has a wonderful free report that will help you keep your home in great shape that you can get access to at http://www.homemaintenancechecklists.com

Sunday, April 15, 2012

How to Make Chocolate Browniesبراونيز بالشوكولاته

How to Make Chocolate Brownies براونيز بالشوكولاته www.wasfati.co

Friday, April 13, 2012

It Is Easy to Clean Aluminum Rims That Are Corroded or Oxidized If You Know How

All you need are the right tools and know-how to cleaning aluminum rims that are in these types of conditions.

Just by following these simple procedures you can quickly learn how to clean aluminum rims easily.

Corroded or oxidized aluminum rims can mean anything from just some sticky road grime and brake dust all the way to much more harsh damage such as pitting. The amount of time and effort that will be needed to clean them is primarily based on how severe the condition is. You need to be aware that oxygen is definitely one of the worst enemies for aluminum. Just by allowing your rims to be exposed to the air will result in them turning dull coloured, old and weathered. Moreover, people who live in colder climates and expose them to road salts damage them even quicker. Other culprits are grime, brake dust and other pollution contaminants. All these external factors can greatly affect the shine and lustre of your rim. So if you have invested into a brand new, or gently used, set of shiny rims you need to protect them from the air as much as possible.

To begin with, park your vehicle in a shaded area and take a garden hose and spray your rims with a strong steady stream of water. Then fill a bucket with lukewarm water and add a generous amount of liquid dish soap or other gentle rim cleaning liquid and mix thoroughly. Apply this mixture to each rim and let it soak for approximately five minutes and then hose it off with a pressurized stream of water. Take a good soft microfiber cloth or chamois and wipe them dry. This initial step alone should remove the majority of the surface grime and allow you to get closer to the actual corrosion and/or oxidization.

Mask off surrounding painted areas of your vehicle by utilizing some painter's masking tape and large sheets of plastic. After that, spray a layer of regular household oven cleaner on them and let it to soak in for about a half hour. Now take a pot and pan scrubber and scrub the entire rim thoroughly. When that is completed, take a hose and rinse it off right afterwards and then buff it dry with a clean cloth. For numerous types of corrosion and oxidization it is important that you repeat this process. A good point to know here is that sometimes that is all that is necessary to complete your cleaning job. If that is the case then all you need to do now is polish them with a professional aluminum brightener, which can be bought at any automotive store, and also polish them with regular car wax. However, if you find that it still does not completely fix the problem you will need to take more drastic steps.

This step will require you to apply a 400 grit sandpaper to all the pitted areas on your aluminum rims. For the majority of types of pitting this is basically the only do-it-yourself solution. Sanding can be accomplished by hand or, for much bigger areas, a motorized sanding wheel installed onto a drill can be used. If you do use this make sure you don't apply too much pressure and also be mindful to keep the wheel constantly moving in a circular motion so that you do not scrape too deeply into any one spot.

After they have been meticulously sanded to an even brightness you will then need to rinse them with a pressurized spray of water and polish them with aluminum brightener. Again you will need to wax your rims with some basic car wax to prevent further oxidation or corrosion.

Remember that you will need to clean aluminum rims on a consistent and frequent basis to keep corrosion and oxidization damage to an absolute minimum. When cleaning aluminum rims you will need to reapply a clear coat of wax after each time, or alternatively, rub on a mild coating of oil on them to also prevent future oxidation or corrosion. The final most important thing to remember on how to clean aluminum rims properly is to always rinse them off and wipe them clean after driving in salted road conditions.




Visit Clean Aluminum Rims for more information.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Kool Moe Dee Go see the doctor

Three days later go see the doctor... I was walking down the street rocking my beat Clapping my hands and stomping my feet I saw a little lady so neet and petite So was so sweet yes I wanted to meet So I asked this lady could I take her out We could wine and dine and we could talk about The birds and the bees in my waterbed And you could treat me like a Buddha and bow your head We continued to talk, and before you knew it We were at my house and it was time to do it As soon as I finished, I lost my poise Ran outside and told all my boys I said "Listen up fellas, come over here, bust it" They said "Did you get it?" I said "Yeah," they said "How was it?" The poontang was dope and you know that I rocked her But three days later, go see the doctor I rocked her to the left, rocked her to the right She felt so good, hugged me so tight I said "Good night" Three days later... Woke up fussing, yelling and cussing Drip drip dripping and puss puss pussing I went to the bathroom and said "Mama mia!" I'm a kill that girl next time I see her The madder I got, the more I reminice Why is my thing thing burning like this? Well I remember the first day I saw that girl I just couldn't wait to rock her world I said "Hey good looking, what you got cooking?" What have I done stuck my dick in? Now I know why her ex-boyfriend Dave Calls her Mrs. Microwave Cause she was hotter than an oven and I had to learn The hard way stay in the microwave too long you get burned But the poontang was dope and ...

Friday, March 23, 2012

How Much Does a New Furnace Cost?

Home appliances can be costly especially the bigger ones. Homeowners know this and newly married couples will get to know this as well when they start purchasing appliances for their home.

One of the major expenses homeowners have to be deal with is when it comes to the heating system. A new furnace, most especially, is more expensive than a washing machine with dryer or a new bathtub. But then again, installing this in your home will let you enjoy big savings going forward. It's the savings on electric bills that matter most when purchasing a new furnace is concerned.

A furnace is a major component of a heating system. Its name was taken from the Latin word "fornax" which refers to an oven.

In a home heating system, the main furnace is often known as a boiler or heater. This is the part that heats air, steam or hot water to provide warm air to the different parts of a home. It can be fueled by natural gas, wood, coal or liquefied petroleum gas or LPG.

On the average, a new furnace can cost from $3,000 to $5,000. This indeed can be a huge cost but again, think of its long term benefits to your home and family. If your existing furnace is no longer energy efficient as it should be and giving you headaches due to high electricity bills, then you should not have second thoughts in getting a new one.

But price alone should not be used as a measure for the best furnace for your home. There are several factors that you have to take into account.

It is highly recommended that you consider the type of furnace you currently have when shopping for a new one. Don't just buy any heater you like as you'll only waste your time and money. Make sure that the type you're planning to purchase matches your existing heating system. In other words if your home's system uses forced hot water, then the new furnace you need to get should also be able to operate with that system.

Size also matters. Keep in mind the bigger the furnace, the most costly it is to operate. For this reason, you may want to get the services of an HVAC contractor to determine which size fits well for your home heating system.

Efficiency rate is as important. Again, an HVAC contractor should be able to recommend the most suitable for your home. You have to know as well that the higher the efficiency rate of the furnace, the more expensive it is compared to units that have lower efficiency. But on the positive side, furnaces with higher efficiency rates cost less to operate which means more savings for you and your family. Normally, you will begin to enjoy the savings after you've fully paid your furnace.

Overall, cost should just be one of the factors you will have to consider when buying your new furnace. If you plan well and consult with the right professionals, then for sure you will succeed in picking the most suitable one for your home.




How much does a new furnace cost? Find the answer at http://www.HomeHeatingSystemHelp.com

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Reaction To The "Oven Effect"

NOTE: YOU MAY NEED TO TURN YOUR VOLUME UP FOR THIS VIDEO... Thanks for watching! checkout my replica belt videos..... www.twitter.com FaceBook - Sam SorceSoldier Sorce

Friday, February 24, 2012

Kolmas nainen - Valehtelisin jos väittäisin

Valehtelisin, jos väittäisin Öisin herääväni murehtimaan maailmaa Valehtelisin, jos väittäisin Ettei se kiinnosta mua ollenkaan Siit' on kai turha tehdä lauluja Kun näyttää siltä, että siit' on turha pitää puheita Turha piestä suutansa Hei laulaja Valehtelisin, jos väittäisin Vihaavani kauneutta Valehtelisin, jos väittäisin Ettei mikään mua pelota Ois kai siistii antaa periksi Toteais vain kylmästi "Ei tästä mitään tuu" Lähtis kävelemään Painais oven kiinni perässään Ois kai siistii antaa periksi Toteais vain kylmästi "Ei tästä mitään tuu" Lähtis kävelemään Painais oven kiinni perässään

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Refrigeration Maintenance, Walk-In Coolers and Freezers

Most refrigerators and walk-ins seem virtually indestructible and problem free, but you'll get longer life out of yours by following these safety and maintenance tips. Clean the door gaskets and hinges regularly. The door gaskets, made of rubber, can rot more easily if they are caked with food or grime, which weakens their sealing properties. They can be safely cleaned with a solution of baking soda and warm water. Hinges can be rubbed with a bit of petroleum jelly to keep them working well. Dirty coils force the refrigerator to run hotter, which shortens the life of the compressor motor. They should be cleaned every 90 days, preferably with an industrial-strength vacuum cleaner.

Walk-in floors can be damp-mopped but should never be hosed out. Too much water can get into the seals between the floor panels and damage the insulation. A refrigerator only works as well as the air that's allowed to circulate around its contents. Cramming food containers together so there's not a spare inch of space around them doesn't help. Also try to keep containers (especially cardboard ones) from touching the walls of the cabinet. They may freeze and stick to the walls, damaging both product and wall. Use a good rotation system: First in, first out (FIFO) is preferable. Or put colored dots on food packages, a different color for each day of the week, so everyone in your kitchen knows how long each item has been in the fridge.

WALK-IN COOLERS AND FREEZERS

A walk-in cooler is just what its name implies: a cooler big enough to walk into. It can be as small as a closet or as large as a good-size room, but its primary purpose is to provide refrigerated storage for large quantities of food in a central area. Experts suggest that your operation needs a walk-in when its refrigeration needs exceed 80 cubic feet, or if you serve more than 250 meals per day. Once again, you'll need to determine how much you need to store, what sizes of containers the storage space must accommodate, and the maximum quantity of goods you'll want to have on hand. The only way to use walk-in space wisely is to equip it with shelves, organized in sections. Exactly how much square footage do you need? The easiest formula is to calculate 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of walk-in storage for every meal you serve per day. Another basic calculation: Take the total number of linear feet of shelving you've decided you will need (A), and divide it by the number of shelves (B) you can put in each section.

This will give you the number of linear feet per section (C). To this number (C), add 40 to 50 percent (1.40 or 1.50) to cover "overflow"-volume increases, wasted space, and bulky items or loose product. This will give you an estimate of the total linear footage (D) needed. However, linear footage is not enough. Because shelves are three dimensional, you must calculate square footage. So multiply (D) by the depth of each shelf (E) to obtain the total square footage amount (F). Finally, double the (F) figure, to compensate for aisle space. Roughly half of walk-in cooler space is aisle space. Another popular formula is to calculate that, for every 28 to 30 pounds of food you'll store, you will need 1 cubic foot of space. When you get that figure, multiply it by 2.5. (The factor 2.5 means only 40 percent of your walk-in will be used as storage space; the other 60 percent is aisles and space between products.)

The result is the size of the refrigerated storage area you will need. For a walk-in freezer, simply divide your walk-in refrigerator space by two. Larger kitchens, which serve more than 400 meals a day, may need as many as three walk-in refrigerators for different temperature needs: one for produce (41 degrees Fahrenheit), one for meats and fish (33 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit), and one for dairy products (32 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit). The walk-in is used most often to store bulk foods. Because this often means wheeling carts or dollies in and out, the floor should be level with the kitchen floor.

This leveling is achieved by the use of strips (called screeds) that are applied to the floor. Coolers don't come as a single unit; they are constructed on-site. The walls, ceilings, and floors are made of individual panels. Wall panels should be insulated to a rating of R-30, which means a 4-inch thickness. They come in various lengths and widths, with 12-by-12-inch corner panels at 90-degree angles. They can be as short as 71?2 feet or as tall as 131?2 feet. The most common type of insulation inside the panels is polyurethane, and the outside walls of the panels can be made of stainless steel, vinyl, or aluminum. Stainless steel is the most expensive, and aluminum-because it's the least expensive-is the most popular choice. If the walk-in is an outdoor installation, aluminum is the most weather resistant.

The installer will be sure the unit has interior lighting. The floor panels for walk-ins are similar to the wall panels. Load capacities of 600 pounds per square foot are the norm, but if you plan to store very heavy items (like beer kegs), a reinforced floor can be purchased with a load capacity of up to 1000 pounds per square foot. The refrigeration system of a walk-in is a more complex installation than a standard refrigerator, primarily because it's so much bigger. Matching the system (and its power requirements) with the dimensions of the walk-in and its projected use is best left to professionals, but it's important to note that a walk-in accessed frequently throughout the day will require a compressor with greater horsepower to maintain its interior temperature than one that is accessed seldom.

A 9-foot-square walk-in would need at least a 2-horsepower compressor. The condenser unit is located either on top of the walk-in (directly above the evaporator) or up to 25 feet away, with lines connecting it to the walk-in. The latter, for obvious reasons, is known as a remote system, and is necessary for larger-than-normal condensing units with capacities of up to 7.5 horsepower. In a remote system, the refrigerant must be added at the time of installation. For smaller walk-ins, there's also a plumbing configuration called a quick-couple system, which is shipped from the factory fully charged with refrigerant. This definitely simplifies installation. However, you may need the added power of a remote system if your kitchen has any of these drains on the walk-in's cooling ability: frequent door opening, glass display doors, multiple doors per compartment, or an ambient kitchen temperature that's near 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Modern walk-ins sometimes offer a frozen-food section in addition to the regular cooler space. There are pros and cons to this concept. It may ease the load on the freezer, because it's already located inside a chilled airspace; but it also can't help but reduce overall usable space, because it requires a separate door. You can also order your walk-in with a separate, reach-in section that has its own door and shelves. Although this may save the cost of purchasing a separate reach-in, some critics claim that a walk-in is not designed to do a reach-in job, such as storing uncovered desserts. Do you really want them in the same environment as cartons of lettuce and other bulk storage items? There may be cleanliness or food quality factors to consider.

The doors should open out, not into the cooler itself. The standard door opening is 34 by 78 inches. Several door features are important for proper walk-in operation. These include: A heavy-duty door closer. Self-closing, cam-lift door hinges. If the door can be opened past a 90-degree angle, the cam will hold it open. A heavy-duty stainless steel threshold. This is installed over the galvanized channel of the door frame. A pull-type door handle, with both a cylinder door lock and room to use a separate padlock if necessary. Pressure-sensitive vents, which prevent vacuum buildup when opening and closing the door. An interior safety release so no one can be (accidentally or otherwise) locked inside the cooler.

Other smart features that can be ordered for walk-ins are: A thermometer (designed for outdoor use, but mounted inside the cooler) with a range of 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A monitoring and recording system that keeps a printout of refrigeration temperature or downloads to a computer. Glass, full-length door panels (like those in supermarkets and convenience stores), sometimes called merchandising doors, either hinged or sliding. Heavy-duty plastic strip curtains inside the door. (One manufacturer claims a 40 percent energy savings with this feature.)

A foot treadle, which enables you to open the door by pressing on a pedal or lever with your foot when both hands are full. Three-way interior lighting, which can be turned on from outside or inside the cooler, with a light-on indicator light outside. Inside, the light itself should be a vapor-proof bulb with an unbreakable globe and shield. When space is at a premium, think about whether it is practical to install an outdoor walk-in unit. This is an economical way to add space without increasing the size of your kitchen, and you can purchase ready-to-use, stand-alone structures with electricity and refrigeration systems in place. They come in standard sizes from 8 to 12 feet wide and up to 50 feet in length, in 1-foot increments.

They range in height from 7.5 to 9.5 feet. Look for a unit with a slanted, weatherproof roof, a weather hood, and a fully insulated floor. Outdoor walk-ins cost about half of the price of installing an indoor kitchen walk-in, so this is a money-saving idea if it works in your location. If your demands for walk-in space are seasonal, consider leasing a refrigerated trailer, available in most metropolitan areas on a weekly or monthly basis. They can provide an instant 2000 cubic feet of additional storage space, which can be kept at any temperature from 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They use basic 60-amp, 230-volt, three-phase electricity. Ask if the lease agreement includes hookup at your site and service if anything goes wrong.




Franco Zinzi has been involved with online marketing for nearly 3 years and likes to write on various subjects. Come visit his latest website which discusses of restaurant fridge and restaurant supplies for the owner of his own business.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Is It A Good Idea To Microwave A Firework Mortar?

Help promote this video! -- clicktotweet.com (CLICK to TWEET) Why Is TMS Ending Next Week? -- bit.ly Experiment #299: Firework Mortar (Series Finale - Part One) In this, the first half of our epic, outdoor series finale... Jory has decided to mircowave a firework mortar... because he's always...